CRAFTiNG
Aug 18, 2014 11:15:38 GMT -5
Post by crow. on Aug 18, 2014 11:15:38 GMT -5
 CRAFTiNG ! overview A vast array of craftable items are available to characters here on the site, from armor to satchels, and any dog or wolf can learn to make them. Most canines have no prior knowledge of crafting--none is really required--they just grabbed some materials and started working. By trial-and-error one can very quickly learn to create whatever fits their fancy. Given that any canine can learn to craft, we have added certain elements to the crafting system to keep things realistic and provide a good challenge. There will be specific 'recipes' for crafting items, it will take real-life time to complete steps in crafting, and there will even be items that can be combined. The tools one uses to craft must be created, and can also break. If you decide to pursue the difficult, and prosperous, path of crafting, you will want to keep this thread close at hand. Best of luck! We know that this guide is bordering on gargantuan, so we ask that you take your time reading it, and ask all the questions you have! rules and guidelines 01. In order to gather herbs/materials, one must post a thread in the location that is correct for the herb/material they are trying to find. You won't find Bamboo in the mountains, for example. Note: During the part of the site plot that involves all dogs living within Sang city, herbs/materials can be gathered throughout the city. Humans often grow herbs in their gardens, and animals can be found both within and on the outskirts of the city. If you have questions, please feel free to contact a staff member. 02. You may gather up to three herbs/materials per post, and fifteen per thread. Remember that the more rare an ingredient, the more difficult it is to find, and therefore the less you will gather per trip. 03. The time it takes to craft something is listed in IC days. However, you cannot simply make one long post where your character spends however many days crafting something. When crafting, you are limited to one IC day per post, and however many IC days you want per thread. 04. Since it would be almost impractical for there to always be at least two characters to a thread when gathering herbs/materials or crafting something, you are allowed to simply roleplay alone. You must clearly state that the thread is for gathering/crafting, and that you will be roleplaying alone, in the first post. You must also have at least one real life day between posts in your thread. 05. Keep your character's knowledge of crafting realistic. If you have a character who comes from a long line of crafters, they might know how to do the more difficult recipes. If you have a character who is attempting to explore the craft by themselves, for the first time, and has no mentor, they would blunder through a lot of things before getting it right. Experience in the craft can be gained by trial-and-error, or by having a mentor to help you along. 06. Remember, just because someone told you that taking a hide and laying in the sun will tan it, doesn't mean you know how to scrape it, soak it, or stretch it properly. 07. You do not have to be a crafter to know how to use certain ingredients. For example; Most canines, since they have seen the process of birth and decay, know that a hide will become hard if left in the sun. This also goes for medicine; Any dog or wolf can learn how to craft potions and poisons. 08. When creating armor, you may only combine two materials. Though there is much potential for using three or more materials to create better armor, it would lead to an insane amount of possible combinations, and each would require a pixel for the Shop. Maybe at some point we will allow that, but, for right now, let's just do either one or two materials for a piece of armor. 09. The effects of crafted items, such as armors, are kept within reason. No armor can fully protect from all attacks, and no item will remain intact forever. Most items, especially armors, will need to be mended, and may reach a point where they should be scrapped and a new one made. 10. In order to use armor or weapons in a battle, one must put them on before the battle, and it must be feasible IC. For example: Bob and George meet and they decide to fight. Bob suddenly pulls out armor from a satchel that was not previously mentioned, and is able to put it on before George can even attack. Keep things realistic. 11. If you have anything you want to see added to any of the lists, feel free to post in the Contact The Staff board with what and at least two reasons why for each thing. We want nothing more than to see our lists full of your ideas! It should be noted that all crafting items must be made of natural materials (rock, wood, etc.) and must be able to be crafted with paws and simple tools. 12. We understand that a wolf or dog using paw-made tools, or crafting and wearing armor, isn't exactly realistic--though the world where they can would be awesome--but we want to maintain some sort of realism to this fictitious aspect to the site. Hence, all the rules and guidelines. If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, please feel free to contact a staff member. the basics of crafting There are a few basics that every wolf or dog should know before beginning to craft. This section will explain those basics, preparing you to forge the armor of your wildest dreams. SKiNNiNG AN ANiMAL. Creates one animal hide.
iTEMS NEEDED. one animal carcass. CRAFTiNG. Skinning an animal can take anywhere from 10 minutes to 4 hours, depending on the size of the animal. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. First, you must have an animal you wish to skin. You can either hunt them, or find a carcass, but it should be noted that the more fresh a kill, the better quality of hide you will receive. Once you have your animal, the first thing you will need to do is open its gut cavity, creating an incision from chest to buttocks, and remove its entrails. Anything you won't eat, such as the intestines and stomach. The heart and liver are packed with nutrients, so don't let them go to waste. After removing the entrails, you will need to use your teeth to cut a circle around, typically at the ankles, and up the inside of each limb, of the animal. If you wish to keep the head and tail intact, then simply cut a slit beneath the jaw and the underside of the tail, otherwise, create a cut at the base of the skull and base of the tail. Grasp the hide, starting from the rear, and brace yourself. Pull back slowly, with even pressure, and the hide will separate from the animal. Some animals, such as rabbits, had thinner hide that is easier to tear, to be sure to use firm but gentle pressure with your teeth to hold your grasp. If you run into any tough spots that just won't pull free, you can take your teeth and run them along the crease where the hide meets the muscle, cutting the fibers that are holding it in place. Well done. You've skinned an animal. You now have a hide with sticky sinew on one side, and fur on the other. It's up to you what to do from here. SCRAPiNG A HiDE. Creates one scraped hide, or one scraped leather.
iTEMS NEEDED. one animal hide. CRAFTiNG. Scraping a hide can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 6 hours, depending on the size of the hide and amount of sinew still clinging to it. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Once you have skinned an animal, now it is time to scrape the extra bits of sinew and muscle from the hide. This step is important in ensuring that pest insects such as flies do not lay eggs on the hide, as their larvae will eat the skin and leave you with a holey hide. Stretch the hide out on as flat a surface as you can find, using rocks to hold down the edges. Next, simply use your claws, or your paw-knife, to scrape away any extra bits of muscle that may be clinging on. Often times it is easiest to use your claws, or paw-knife, to scrape up the edge of the muscle-patch, then use your teeth to peel it free. You will want to scrape until you can just faintly begin to see the roots of the fur on the other side. Continue scraping after that and you will end up with a holey hide. If you wish to remove the fur from the other side of the hide, effectively beginning to create leather, then simply turn the hide over, stretch it back out, and scrape until the fur is gone. DRYiNG A HiDE. Creates one dried hide - stiff, one dried hide - flexible, or one leather - stiff, one leather - flexible.
iTEMS NEEDED. one scraped hide, or one scraped leather. CRAFTiNG. Drying a hide can take anywhere from one hour to 2 or even 3 days, depending on the amount of sun available, size of hide, and whether you are making it flexible or not. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Once you have skinned your animal and scraped your hide, you are ready to dry it. Drying a hide is very easy, and doesn't require much effort on your part unless you want it flexible instead of stiff. To create a stiff dried hide, you simply need to stretch it out in full sun, and leave it sit. The warmth of the sun's rays will do the job for you over time. If you wish to create a flexible hide, however, you must be attentive. Once you have your hide stretched out in full sun, you must gently scrape it, roll it, and unroll every two hours until it is dry. Scraping it further breaks down the fibers in the leather, making it soft and supple, and rolling it ensures flexibility. If you falter in your diligence, you may end up with a doormat. It takes longer to dry the hide when using this method, as the rolling and unrolling releases the moisture that may be stored on the underside or within the fibers themselves. BASiC BiNDiNGS. Creates 5 fur strips, or 5 leather strips.
iTEMS NEEDED. one dried hide - flexible, or one leather - flexible. CRAFTiNG. Creating fur or leather strips doesn't take very long, 5 minutes maximum. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Lay out your flexible hide or leather. It is crucial that the hide be flexible, or you would simply be creating toothpicks. Take your claws, teeth, or paw-knife, and cut a thin strip from one edge of the hide. Try to keep the width of the strip even. Remove that strip and lay it aside. Repeat. When creating fur strips, it should be noted that the hide should be fur-up when you are cutting the strips. This makes it easier to go with the grain and keep an even line. Fur and leather strips are used for bindings in nearly everything, from containers to armor. They are a staple of the craft-canine's tools. BRAiDED BiNDiNGS. Creates 5 braided fur strips, or 5 braided leather strips.
iTEMS NEEDED. 15 fur strips, or 15 leather strips. CRAFTiNG. Braided strips take about 15 minutes per braid, meaning a minimum time of 1 hour and 15 minutes, if you know what you're doing. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Take three strips and lay them side-by-side. Using your claws and teeth, knot all three together at one end. Next, place that knot beneath a rock so that the strips won't move about. Arrange them so they are once again side-by-side. Take the strip on the far right and lay it over the middle, between the middle and the left strip. Take the left strip and lay it over, between the middle and right strip. Take the far right strip and lay it over, between the middle and left strip. Repeat this process to braid the strips together. It is important to apply a decent amount of pressure as you do this, pulling the braid taught and the strips tightly together. The tighter a braid, the stronger the finished product. Once you have braided all three strips together, knot the end of it tightly. Remove it from beneath the rock and admire your work. Excellent. Four more to go. While normal fur or leather strips make excellent bindings, tough and durable, braided strips can withstand much more pressure and wear. By weaving the three strips together, you have increased their strength three-fold. Braided strips are often used in armor, or for the straps to satchels, because both will need to withstand more weight and punishment. crafting tools There are a few tools that certainly come in handy when crafting, and some that you simply can't craft without. This section will explain them all, and how to make them. Beware, tools will break after so many uses. PAW-KNiFE. Creates one paw-knife.
iTEMS NEEDED. one rock. CRAFTiNG. Creating a paw-knife is a simple process, and should only take about 5 minutes. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Take your chosen rock to a hard surface. A large rock, such as a boulder, is often the best place to do this. Once you've found your hard surface, take your chosen rock and slam it against the surface. Repeat this process, trying to hit it at the same spot each time, until it shatters. Out of the pieces, there is usually one that is about the size of your paw. Everyone has a different sized paw, so make sure that it is right for you. You should be able to rest your pads on the thickest part of the piece, and your claws should wrap just around the bluntest edge of it. The opposite edge should be sharp, but, if it isn't, you can always gently tap it against a hard surface to chip it away until it is. It will take some practice to be able to properly manipulate the paw-knife. Once you have it mastered, however, you will be slicing through leather like teeth through fresh meat. A paw-knife, generally, lasts for about a month, depending on how much you use it. The rock isn't likely to break, though it is possible. Instead, the most common reason a paw-knife must be discarded is due to the wearing down of the sharp-edge. It blunts after so many uses, and must be chipped back to a crisp edge. Doing this, however, slightly reduces the size of the paw-knife each time. Eventually, it will be too small to be properly gripped, and must be discarded (or passed down to a younger crafter with smaller paws). FiRE-STARTER. Creates one fire-starter.
iTEMS NEEDED. one flint rock, one rock. CRAFTiNG. The two steps involved in creating a fire-starter aren't complicated, so it shouldn't take one more than 15 minutes. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Take your flint rock and chip it gently against a hard surface to sharpen one edge. Once it is nice and sharp, set it aside. Take your rock and hit it against a hard surface. You're looking to shatter the rock to create a flat-ish piece. Typically, it only takes a few good blows to shatter the rock. Pick out the appropriate piece. Take the flint in your paw and strike it against the rock. You should see sparks fly. If you do, then you've done it right, and you now have a fire-starter. Simply strike those sparks into some tinder and you'll have a blaze in no time. Fire is not only useful for survival, it is used for cooking food (if you prefer some seasoning to your meals), drying hides, and providing light in dark areas. It is something that no crafter or medicine-canine should be without. NEEDLE. Creates one needle.
iTEMS NEEDED. one twig. CRAFTiNG. A 'needle' comes pretty much ready-made. It only takes about 2 minutes to tweak it a bit. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Lay the twig on a flat surface. Using your paw-knife, start about two thirds the way down the twig, and scrape. Turn the twig a quarter turn and repeat. Do this until the tip of the twig has come to a point. Now move to the blunt end. Use your paw-knife to score a perpendicular divot about a half-inch from the end. You're finished. The needle is a tool one simply has to have when creating armor, or using bindings of any sort. Without it, it is nearly impossible to guide the strip through the hole. When using the needle, you simply tie one end of the strip around the blunt end, tucking it into the divot, and then use the point to thread the strip as you need. Needles, even though they are made of a simple twig, last quite awhile. This is mostly because one has to be careful when threading strips, but also because, as the wood dries, it becomes harder. If you were so inclined, you could fire-harden the needle to further increase its strength. armor Multiple types of armor are available for you to create and combine, leaving you with nearly endless possibilities for a full suit. There are three pieces to a full suit of armor: a helmet, limb armor (which covers the neck, legs, and tail), and body armor. Armor can be made out of five materials: Grass, Fur, Leather, Wood, or Bone, and you can combine any two materials to create a piece of armor. Sound like fun? I thought so. GRASS ARMOR. woven mats, made from any plant that has long thin leaves, lashed together and layered. this armor provides a minimal amount of protection.
iTEMS NEEDED. 3 bushels of grass (or any plant that has long thin leaves), 5 fur or leather strips. CRAFTiNG. Weaving grass takes time, but once you have the hang of it, it moves pretty quickly. Once you have the mats made, it takes longer to lash them together and shape them. It would take one a half day to make a helmet. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. To weave grass is simple, but takes a little getting used to. Start by laying out your bushels, one pile for each bushel, and spreading them flat. Lay a flat rock, or a series of rocks, over one end of the grass to hold it down. Start at the furthest edge of one of the bushels, take two strands of grass, and lay them over two more, going toward the other edge of the bushel. Now take the two that were laid over, and lay them over two more. Repeat this process all the way to the edge. Once you've reached the edge, take the last two, and lay them the opposite way. You will repeat the same process, only this time you will be going the opposite direction. Continue to weave the grass, going back and forth, making sure to pull the weave tight every now and again, until you have reached the bottom. Once you've reached the bottom, pull the weaves as tight as possible without breaking the grass. Take four strands and knot them together. Knot four more, and four more, until the entire base is knotted. Now remove the rocks holding the bushel in place and knot the other end. You now have one woven mat. Use your paw-knife to cut the other two bushels into halves, then weave them to create four more mats. These mats should be shorter than the first, but that's alright. You will need them to be shorter. Knot the ends when you are finished. Now that you have your mats, you can begin lashing them together and shaping them. Take the longest mat and lay it out. This mat will cover your forehead down to the tip of your nose. Next, take one of the shorter mats and lay on top of the first mat, to the right and up. This mat will be cut to cover your left ear and your temple. Take a second short-mat and lay it beneath the ear-mat, but on top of the long-mat, also on the right side. This mat will cover your cheek. Repeat the process on the other side. Now that you have the basic layout, it is time to lash them together. Tie a knot in the end of your fur or leather strip, and attach the other end to your needle. Poke the needle down through the grass, where the first ear-mat meets the long-mat, and back up. Pull it tight. Now continue to thread your strip through the mats, following the line where the long-mat and the ear- and cheek-mat meet. Once you reach the bottom of the mats, simply untie your strip from your needle, and knot the strip tight, cutting off the excess. Repeat this process on the other side. Once again loading your needle, now you will begin threading your third strip along the line where the ear-mat and cheek-mat meet. Repeat this for the other side. Now it is time to attach the chin-strap that will hold the helmet on your head. Simply reload your needle, poke a hole through the mat at the point where the cheek- and long-mat meet, and pull it tight. Now poke through the same spot on the other side of the helmet, but do not pull it too tight. Leave some slack so you can slip your head inside. Put a knot in the strip to hold it in place, we will come back to adjust the fit in a moment. With all the mats attached, and the helmet now together, it's time to cut it to shape. Take your paw-knife. Using it, carefully carve the shape of your cheek, ear, and muzzle from the mats. Make sure to leave a bit of extra grass so you can knot it back together. Cut out eye-holes so you can see, and adjust any rough edges. Knot everything back together where it was cut, and try it on. When looking for the perfect fit, the mats should sit evenly across your head, the chin strap tight enough to keep it from slipping off during quick movements. The eye-holes should be even, and wide enough for clear vision. The ear-mats will be a bit stiff, but should protect the backs of your ears. If it fits, you're done. LiMB ARMOR.
iTEMS NEEDED. 4 or 6 bushels of grass (or any plant that has long thin leaves), depending on whether you intend to make neck and tail armor in addition to leg armor, 10 or 14 fur or leather strips. CRAFTiNG. Weaving grass takes time, but once you have the hang of it, it moves pretty quickly. Once you have the mats made, it takes longer to lash them together and shape them. It would take one a full day to make limb armor. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. To weave grass is simple, but takes a little getting used to. Start by laying out your bushels, one pile for each bushel, and spreading them flat. Lay a flat rock, or a series of rocks, over one end of the grass to hold it down. Start at the furthest edge of one of the bushels, take two strands of grass, and lay them over two more, going toward the other edge of the bushel. Now take the two that were laid over, and lay them over two more. Repeat this process all the way to the edge. Once you've reached the edge, take the last two, and lay them the opposite way. You will repeat the same process, only this time you will be going the opposite direction. Continue to weave the grass, going back and forth, making sure to pull the weave tight every now and again, until you have reached the bottom. Once you've reached the bottom, pull the weaves as tight as possible without breaking the grass. Take four strands and knot them together. Knot four more, and four more, until the entire base is knotted. Now remove the rocks holding the bushel in place and knot the other end. You now have one woven mat. Weave the rest of the bushels to create your other mats. Take one mat and lay it out flat. Load your needle with a strip and poke it through a top corner of the mat. Thread the needle through the other top corner, and pull some, but not all, of the slack out of the strip. You will want it to be a snug fit once you are wearing it, so leave extra room for adjustment. Reload your needle and do the same thing to the bottom corners. You have created a leg-guard. Now you can try it on and adjust the fit. Repeat this process three more times to create the other three leg-guards. If you wish to create neck and tail armor, then you will need to repeat the process two more times, and adjust the fit for your neck and tail. BODY ARMOR.
iTEMS NEEDED. 20 bushels of grass (or any plant that has long thin leaves), 22 fur or leather strips. CRAFTiNG. Weaving grass takes time, but once you have the hang of it, it moves pretty quickly. Once you have the mats made, it takes longer to lash them together and shape them. It would take one three days to make body armor. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. To weave grass is simple, but takes a little getting used to. Start by laying out your bushels, one pile for each bushel, and spreading them flat. Lay a flat rock, or a series of rocks, over one end of the grass to hold it down. Start at the furthest edge of one of the bushels, take two strands of grass, and lay them over two more, going toward the other edge of the bushel. Now take the two that were laid over, and lay them over two more. Repeat this process all the way to the edge. Once you've reached the edge, take the last two, and lay them the opposite way. You will repeat the same process, only this time you will be going the opposite direction. Continue to weave the grass, going back and forth, making sure to pull the weave tight every now and again, until you have reached the bottom. Once you've reached the bottom, pull the weaves as tight as possible without breaking the grass. Take four strands and knot them together. Knot four more, and four more, until the entire base is knotted. Now remove the rocks holding the bushel in place and knot the other end. You now have one woven mat. Weave the rest of the bushels to create your other mats. Now you will need to get a basic layout for your armor. Take a mat and lay it flat. Lay another on top, about two thirds the way down, and another two-thirds the way down on that one. Load your needle and thread your strips where each mat meets another, connecting them together. Repeat this process 6 more times, ultimately ending up with 7 panels of connected mats, three mats per panel. Take a panel and lat it flat. Lay a second panel on its left side, overlapping an inch or so. Lay a third, again overlapping. Reload your needle and thread a long strip where one panel meets another, then a second strip where the other panels meets the middle panel. Repeat this process once more, ending with one panel aside, and two side-armor pieces. Lay one of the side-armor pieces flat. Lay the other opposite of it, leaving a few inches of space between them. Make sure that the layers of mats face the same direction--they will sweep toward your back when you are wearing the body armor. Take your final panel and lay it in the middle of the two side-armor pieces, overlapping a few inches on each piece. Load your needle and thread one long strip where the panel meets a side-armor piece, then another on the other side, where the panel meets the other piece. You should have two fur or leather strips remaining, and you now have your body armor connected. Take your paw-knife. Cut the shape of your body into the side-armor pieces, adjusting the way it settles on your shoulders as well. Make sure to leave extra length on the grass so you can knot back what you cut. Once you are satisfied, and have knotted it back, you can attach the girth and belly straps, and try it on. Load your needle. Poke it through the grass at the front bottom corner of the side-piece, near where your elbow would rest when wearing the armor. Connect the strip the same spot on the other side. Leave extra strip so that you can adjust the fit. Reload your needle and poke it through the rear bottom corner of the side-piece, near where your flank would rest when wearing the armor. Connect the strip to the same spot on the other side. Leave extra strip so that you can adjust the fit. Now put the armor on and adjust the fit as needed. Once you're satisfied, you're done. FUR ARMOR. flexible hides of various animals lashed together with fur or leather strips and laid across the body. this armor provides an adequate amount of protection.
iTEMS NEEDED. one medium-sized dried hide - flexible, large enough to cover your head. 1 fur or leather strip. CRAFTiNG. The majority of the time it would take to create fur armor--the skinning, scraping, and drying of required hides--is done prior to actually assembling the armor. It would take one three hours to create a helmet. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Fortunately, the fur armor comes mainly ready-made. You simply need to shape it, attach straps, and adjust the fit. Lay the hide out flat, fur up. Take your paw-knife. Cut two triangular slits in the top corners of the hide for ear-holes. Now cut the edges of the hide to fit the contours of your face. This part will take the longest, as it may require a bit of trial-and-error to get it comfortable. Make sure you always take only small bits at a time--you can always go shorter, you can't add back what you've cut. Once you have it to your liking, load your needle with your fur or leather strip. Poke it through the bottom corner of the hide, where the hide would rest over your chin when worn. Poke it through the same spot on the opposite side of the hide, pulling some, but not all, of the slack out of the strip. Now you simply have to put it on, adjust the chin-strap, and you're good to go. LiMB ARMOR.
iTEMS NEEDED. four or six small dried hides - flexible, depending on whether you want to create neck and tail armor as well. 12 fur or leather strips. CRAFTiNG. The majority of the time it would take to create fur armor--the skinning, scraping, and drying of required hides--is done prior to actually assembling the armor. It would take one a half day to create limb armor. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Fortunately, the fur armor comes mainly ready-made. You simply need to shape it, attach straps, and adjust the fit. Lay out one of your small hides. Take your paw-knife. Trim the hide into a tall rectangle. Load your needle. Poke it through the top corner of the hide, and connect it to the same spot on the other side. Repeat the same thing on the bottom corners of the hide. Now try the leg-guard on and adjust the fit. Repeat this process three more times for the other three leg-guards. If you are making neck and tail armor, repeat the process two more times. BODY ARMOR.
iTEMS NEEDED. one large dried hide - flexible, large enough to cover your body. two fur or leather straps. CRAFTiNG. The majority of the time it would take to create fur armor--the skinning, scraping, and drying of required hides--is done prior to actually assembling the armor. It would take one two hours to create body armor. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Fortunately, the fur armor comes mainly ready-made. You simply need to shape it, attach straps, and adjust the fit. Lay your large hide out flat. Take your paw-knife. Cut the hide to fit the contours of your body. This part will take the longest, as it may require trial-and-error to make sure the shape is correct. Make sure to take little bits at a time--you can always go shorter, but you can't add back what you've cut. Load your needle. Poke it through the bottom corner of the hide, where the hide would sit near your flank when worn. Connect it to the same spot on the other side, leaving slack to adjust the fit. Reload your needle. Poke it through the top of the hide, near where the hide would sit on your shoulder when worn. Connect it to the same spot on the other side. Try the armor on, and adjust the fit of the straps. LEATHER ARMOR. hides, tanned and boiled, are layered to create thick stiff plates. this armor provides a decent amount of protection.
iTEMS NEEDED. three small leather - stiff. four fur or leather strips. decent supply of water. firewood. two fire-stones. CRAFTiNG. Though part of the processing of the leather is already done, there is still the boiling, threading, and shaping of it before it can be called armor. It would take one a full day to create a helmet. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Set your firewood into a pile. You will need ample fuel for the flame, as it will be burning for quite awhile. Take your fire-starter and strike a fire. Once you have it going at an even pace, roll your fire-stones into it. While you are waiting for the fire-stones to heat up, fill your mortar with water. Make sure that you have easy access to more water, as it will evaporate as it boils, and will need to be continuously replaced. Take one of your small leathers and soak it in the mortar, making sure it is completely saturated. By now your fire-stones should be ready. Carefully roll one out of the fire and place it into the water-filled mortar. The water should nearly boil instantly. Once that fire-stone begins to cool, remove it and place it back in the fire, taking the second one and placing it into the mortar. You want to keep the water boiling for at least two hours. Turn the leather every now and again, making sure that all parts of it have an equal amount of time beneath the boiling liquid. While you are waiting for the first leather to boil, lay flat your other two. Take your paw-knife. Cut both of the leathers in half. Now you simply wait until the first leather is finished boiling. Once it is, carefully remove it, and add in the four smaller leather pieces. Continue to boil those, for two hours, as you work on your largest leather piece. Once the leather has been removed from the boiling water, it remains flexible for a limited amount of time. You will need to work quickly. Take your paw-knife. This piece will cover your forehead to the tip of your nose. Cut it to the shape required. Before it has completely cooled, but after it has become cool enough to touch, press it to your skull, molding it to the exact contours. Allow it to finish cooling in that position. Once the four smaller pieces have finished boiling, remove them from the water. You will need to continue boiling after you have shaped and attached these pieces, but you can let the water cool so long as you keep your fire up and fire-stones hot. The largest piece of leather should have cooled by now. Remove it and set it aside for the moment. You will notice that it holds the shape of your head. That is exactly what you want. For the smaller pieces, you will not need to move so quickly, as you are not going to mold it just yet, but you will be threading strips through it, so some flexibility is required. Lay them out flat. Take one of the halves and lay it over the top of another, overlapping by only an inch or so. Load your needle. Attach the two pieces together by threading your strip along the line where the pieces overlap. Repeat this same process for the other two pieces. Loading your needle once more, use another, longer strip, to attach one of the panels to one side of the longest leather (the one you molded to the shape of your head). It may be difficult to push the needle through the leather, as it has been boiled and is already hardened to a degree, so be careful. Now attach the other panel to the opposite side. Now you will need to move a bit more quickly. Soak your helmet in your mortar, and bring the water to a rolling boil using your fire-stones. Allow the helmet to boil for one hour. Be attentive. If the water ceases boiling for more than five minutes, it could warp the leather. Once the helmet is finished boiling, remove it. You will no longer need to boil, so you can let the water cool and your fire die. Use your paws to press the strips firmly against the leather, increasing their strength. Once it has cooled enough to be safely worn, put it on. Mold the still-flexible leather to the shape of your head, taking care to get the cheeks and ears. Allow it to cool in this position. After the helmet has cooled and hardened, take it off. Take your paw-knife. Cut off any excess leather, shaping the helmet to your head. Make sure to cut out ear and eye-holes. Now, simply load your needle, attach a chin-strap, and adjust the fit. LiMB ARMOR.
iTEMS NEEDED. four or six small leather - stiff, depending on whether you want to create neck and tail armor as well as leg-guards. eight or twelve fur or leather strips. decent supply of water. firewood. two fire-stones. CRAFTiNG. Though part of the processing of the leather is already done, there is still the boiling, threading, and shaping of it before it can be called armor. It would take one two days to create limb armor. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Set your firewood into a pile. You will need ample fuel for the flame, as it will be burning for quite awhile. Take your fire-starter and strike a fire. Once you have it going at an even pace, roll your fire-stones into it. While you are waiting for the fire-stones to heat up, fill your mortar with water. Make sure that you have easy access to more water, as it will evaporate as it boils, and will need to be continuously replaced. Take one of your small leathers and soak it in the mortar, making sure it is completely saturated. By now your fire-stones should be ready. Carefully roll one out of the fire and place it into the water-filled mortar. The water should nearly boil instantly. Once that fire-stone begins to cool, remove it and place it back in the fire, taking the second one and placing it into the mortar. You want to keep the water boiling for at least two hours. Turn the leather every now and again, making sure that all parts of it have an equal amount of time beneath the boiling liquid. There is nothing you need to do, except perhaps gather more firewood, while you wait for the first leather to boil. Once the first leather has finished boiling, remove it, and add another to the water. You must move quickly, however, as the freshly boiled leather only remains flexible for a short time once out of the water. Press it gently around your leg, molding it to the shape of your limb. Allow it to cool in that position. Once it has cooled, remove it, and load your needle. Poke the needle through one of the top corners, and thread the strip through to the same spot on the other side. Do not remove all of the slack, as this will become a strap. Repeat the process for the bottom corners. Try it on and adjust the fit. You will repeat this process of boiling, molding, attaching straps, and adjusting the fit for the next three leathers. If you are making neck and tail armor, simply repeat the process twice more for those pieces. BODY ARMOR.
iTEMS NEEDED. one large leather - flexible, three medium leather - stiff, two small leather - stiff. eleven fur or leather strips. CRAFTiNG. Though part of the processing of the leather is already done, there is still the boiling, threading, and shaping of it before it can be called armor. It would take one three days to create body armor. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Set your firewood into a pile. You will need ample fuel for the flame, as it will be burning for quite awhile. Take your fire-starter and strike a fire. Once you have it going at an even pace, roll your fire-stones into it. While you are waiting for the fire-stones to heat up, fill your mortar with water. Make sure that you have easy access to more water, as it will evaporate as it boils, and will need to be continuously replaced. Lay out your medium leathers. Take your paw-knife. Cut them all in half, creating six half-pieces. Cut them into large rectangles. When doing this, you mostly want to simply trim up the edges of the leather, creating a rectangle, as opposed to cutting a rectangle out of the middle. Cut your two smaller hides into rectangles as well. Take three of your half-pieces and soak them in the mortar, making sure they are completely saturated. By now your fire-stones should be ready. Carefully roll one out of the fire and place it into the water-filled mortar. The water should nearly boil instantly. Once that fire-stone begins to cool, remove it and place it back in the fire, taking the second one and placing it into the mortar. You want to keep the water boiling for at least two hours. Turn the leather every now and again, making sure that all parts of it have an equal amount of time beneath the boiling liquid. Lay out your large flexible leather. Take your paw-knife. Cut it to the shape of your body. This is most easily done by putting it on, taking it off, cutting a little bit, then putting it back on, and repeating. Take your time in making sure the sizing and contouring is correct, and it will sit comfortably. This leather will be the one that will rest against you, beneath the boiled leather plates. Once the three half-pieces are finished boiling, remove them and lay them flat. Add in the other three half-pieces to the mortar, and begin their boiling process. While the freshly boiled half-pieces are still pliable, now would be the time to add decoration to them, if you were so inclined. Pressing a paw into it will create a pawprint, or digging in a few fangs in would create tooth-marks. Be creative in your decorations, make the armor your own. Once you have finished decorating, allow the leather to cool flat. Repeat this process of decoration and cooling to the other three half-pieces when they have finished boiling, being sure to add the last two small leathers in to boil before you do so. Once the small leathers are finished boiling, lay them flat and decorate them as well. Now that all of the leather is boiled and cooled, we can begin to attach the plates to your flexible leather--the underpiece. Lay one of the half-pieces on the far right of the underpiece, hanging off the edge as necessary (since the half-piece is not contoured, but the underpiece is, overhang is expected). Now lay a second to the left of the first plate, overlapping an inch or so. And once more. Repeat this on the other side of the underpiece, leaving a few inches of space between the two layerings. Now, take your two small leather and lay them on top of the empty space, overlapping each layering by an inch or so. Load your needle. First, you will need to attach the plates to each other and to the underpiece. Poke your needle through the point where two plates and a small leather piece meet. Thread your strip down, connecting the two plates together. Repeat this three more times to connect all the plates together on both sides. Reload your needle with a long strip. Poke it through the point where the small leather begins, where it would rest on your shoulders when worn. Thread the strip down one side, connecting the small leather to one side of plates. Repeat this on the other side. Reload your needle with a long strip. Now, poke it through what would be the middle of your shoulders when the armor is being worn. Thread that strip along the entire bottom of the underpiece, attaching all of the plates to it on that side. Repeat this for the other side. Reload your needle twice more, and attach a girth and belly strap. Now simply put the armor on, and adjust the fit. WOOD ARMOR. pieces of bark cover wood to create thick plates. this type of armor provides a good amount of protection.
iTEMS NEEDED. one medium leather - flexible, large enough to cover your head. six small pieces of wood, six small pieces of thick bark. one honeycomb. CRAFTiNG. Drilling the holes required into wood, and attaching the bark, takes time and effort. It would take one two days to create a helmet. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Lay out your medium leather on a flat surface. This will become the base for your helmet. Lay out your bark and wood pieces separately. Take your paw-knife. Cut the honeycomb into six pieces. Take a piece of honeycomb and set it on top of one of the wood pieces. Use the blunt side of your paw-knife to crush the honeycomb piece into a fine mash. Spread it evenly across the surface of the wood piece. Set a piece of bark on top of the wood and press firmly. Now turn the piece over, so that the natural pressure of the heavier wood piece bears down on the bark. Allow the plate to sit and dry for a minimum of 8 hours. If you have a heat source, such as sunlight, or a fire, it will dry in the 8 hours. However, if you do not, and are simply allowing it to air-dry, it may take upwards of 10 or 12 hours to dry completely. Repeat this process with the rest of the wood, bark, and honeycomb pieces. Ultimately, you will end up with six bark-covered wood plates. While you are waiting for your plates to dry, you can begin shaping the leather. You should already have it laying flat, if not, lay it flat. Take your paw-knife. Cut the leather to match the contours of your skull. This is most easily done by putting the leather on, taking it off, cutting a little bit, putting it back on, and repeating the process until you have it right. Make sure to cut out eye- and ear-holes. Once you have shaped the leather, and the six plates are finished drying, you can begin to assemble the helmet. Take one plate. Use a canine tooth to dig a small hole through the bark and wood, just large enough for a strip to fit through. Center it at the top of the plate. Repeat this for the remaining five plates. Load your needle. Thread your strip through the hole of one of the plates. Now poke through the leather, attaching the plate to the lower-cheek area. Tie the strip firmly. Reload the needle and attach another plate above it, so that it overlaps, covering the temple area of the leather. Repeat this on the other side. Reload the needle and attach a plate to the forehead area. Reload the needle and attach the last plate to the bridge of the muzzle area. Reload the needle with the last strip. Poke it through the leather beneath the chin-plate, and attach it to the other side to create a chin-strap. Now try the helmet on and adjust the fit. LiMB ARMOR.
iTEMS NEEDED. four or six small pieces of wood, four or six small pieces of bark, depending on whether you want to create neck and tail armor in addition to leg-guards. one honeycomb. eight or twelve fur or leather strips. CRAFTiNG. Drilling the holes required into wood, and attaching the bark, takes time and effort. It would take one a full day to create limb armor. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Lay out your wood and bark pieces separately. Take your paw-knife. Cut your honeycomb into four or six pieces, in accordance with whether you are creating neck and tail armor in addition to leg-guards. Place a piece of honeycomb on the top of a wood piece. Using the blunt side of your paw-knife, crush the honeycomb piece into a mash. Spread it evenly across the wood. Take a piece of bark and press it firmly against the wood. Turn the plate over so that the natural pressure of the wood bears down on the bark. Allow the plate to sit and dry for a minimum of 8 hours. If you have a heat source, such as sunlight, or a fire, it will dry in the 8 hours. However, if you do not, and are simply allowing it to air-dry, it may take upwards of 10 or 12 hours to dry completely. Repeat this process with the rest of the wood, bark, and honeycomb pieces. Ultimately, you will end up with either four or six bark-covered wood plates. There is nothing you need to do while waiting for the plates to dry. Once they are dry, use a canine tooth to drill four holes, one in each corner of all the plates. Load your needle and thread it through one of the holes, connecting it to the hole on the opposite side. Do it again on the bottom of the plate. Do this for all the plates. Try them on, and adjust the fit of the straps. BODY ARMOR.
iTEMS NEEDED. one large leather - flexible. eight large pieces of wood, eight large pieces of bark. ten honeycombs. twelve fur or leather strips. CRAFTiNG. Drilling the holes required into wood, and attaching the bark, takes time and effort. It would take one three days to create body armor. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Lay out your leather on a flat surface. This will become the base for your armor. Lay out your wood and bark pieces separately. Place a honeycomb on the top of a wood piece. Using the blunt side of your paw-knife, crush the honeycomb piece into a mash. Spread it evenly across the wood. Take a piece of bark and press it firmly against the wood. Turn the plate over so that the natural pressure of the wood bears down on the bark. Allow the plate to sit and dry for a minimum of 12 hours. If you have a heat source, such as sunlight, or a fire, it will dry in the 12 hours. However, if you do not, and are simply allowing it to air-dry, it may take upwards of 20 or 24 hours to dry completely. Repeat this process with the rest of the wood, bark, and honeycomb pieces. Ultimately, you will end up with eight bark-covered wood plates. While you are waiting for the wood to dry, you can shape your leather. Take your paw-knife. Cut the leather to fit the contours of your body. This is most easily done by trying the leather on, taking it off, cutting a bit, trying it back on, and repeating the process. Once the wood has finished drying, you can begin assembling the armor. For six of the eight plates, use a canine tooth to drill a hole in the top middle of each plate. For the other two, drill holes in both the top middle and bottom middle of the plate. Set those two plates aside from the rest. Take one plate. Load your needle. Poke it through the hole you've drilled, and then through the leather so that the plate will hang over the shoulder when the armor is worn. Tie the strip securely. Attach a second plate to the leather so that it will cover your ribs. Attach a third plate so that it will cover your flank. Repeat this process on the other side. Now take one of the two plates that has two holes. Load your needle. Poke it through the top hole, and attach the top of the plate to the top of the leather, where the plate will cover your shoulders when the armor is worn. Reload your needle and poke it through the bottom hole, attaching it firmly to the leather so the plate doesn't shift to one side or the other. Repeat this with the second two-hole plate, positioning the plate so that it will cover your back/hips. Attach it firmly. Reload your needle and attach a girth and belly strap. Now try the armor on and adjust the fit. BONE ARMOR. bones from prey and foe alike are layered across the body, deflecting attacks readily. this armor provides a great amount of protection.
iTEMS NEEDED. one medium leather - flexible, large enough to cover your head. four ribs of a medium-sized animal (example sizes: pit bull to white-tailed deer). eleven ribs of a small-sized animal (example sizes: boston terrier to raccoon). thirty-two fur or leather strips. CRAFTiNG. It takes both time and skill to create any type of bone armor. One must be adept with their paws, and tools, in order to do it. It would take one three days to create a helmet. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Once you have gathered your materials, you must now make sure of their quality. The bones should be sun-dried for a minimum of 24 hours, two 12-hour sessions of sunlight. Once they are dried, they must be sturdy enough to withstand a decent amount of bending pressure without breaking, but flexible enough to be carved. Lay your bones out for the sun treatment. This will take the majority of the time in making the helmet. While you are waiting, however, you can shape the leather. Lay the leather out flat. Take your paw-knife. Cut the leather to the shape of your skull. This is most easily done by putting the leather on, taking it off, cutting a little bit, putting it back on, and repeating the process until you have the perfect shape. Don't forget to shape the eye- and ear-holes. Once the bones are finished drying, you can now process them. Take a bone between your paws. Using the side of your jaw, focusing on the sharpest teeth in your cheek, carve two "V" shaped notches in the thickest end of the bone. These will hold the strip, attaching the bone securely to the leather. Repeat this with the rest of the bones. An optional step, at this point in the crafting of the helmet, is to bone-carve the ribs. This is done by using one's canine teeth to carve delicate designs into the bone. Bone-carving requires a massive amount of skill, and is extremely time-consuming. A well-carved set of bones, however, can make a piece of bone armor. If you decide to bone-carve, it can take you anywhere from 12 hours to three days to fully carve all of the bones used for the helmet. It is important to note that the bone can only be carved while it is still separate from the helmet--it must be rolled in a multitude of positions while being carved. While you could absolutely remove the bone from the leather, carve it, then re-attach it, you would be destroying a fur or leather strip in the process, and there is no guarantee that you can re-attach the bone in the same spot. The holes already in the leather may be too weak to use twice. Now you can begin attaching the bones to the leather. Load your needle. Take a medium rib. Wrap your strip three times around the notches you previously carved, knot it once. Now poke the needle through the leather, just below the eye-hole, so that the bone falls down to cover the cheek when worn. Tie it securely. Reload your needle and attach a second medium bone next to the first, giving the helmet two cheek protecting bones. Repeat this for the other side. Reload your needle. Wrap one of the small bones and attach it to the leather, where the muzzle meets the space between the eyes, so that the bone will lay down the muzzle when the helmet is worn. Attach a second bone directly next to it to create protection for the length of the muzzle. Reload your needle. Wrap one of the small bones, and attach it to the leather at the base of the ear-hole. Tighten it so that the bone will stand mainly on its own, leaning only slightly against the ear when the helmet is worn. Connect two more beside it, encompassing the back of the ear. Repeat this for the other ear. Reload the needle one last time, and attach a chin strap. Now try the helmet on and adjust the fit of everything. LiMB ARMOR.
iTEMS NEEDED. four or six small leather - flexible. twelve or eighteen ribs of a small-sized animal (example sizes: boston terrier to raccoon). sixteen or twenty-four fur or leather strips. depending on whether you want to create neck and tail armor in addition to leg-guards. CRAFTiNG. It takes both time and skill to create any type of bone armor. One must be adept with their paws, and tools, in order to do it. It would take one three days to create limb armor. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Once you have gathered your materials, you must now make sure of their quality. The bones should be sun-dried for a minimum of 24 hours, two 12-hour sessions of sunlight. Once they are dried, they must be sturdy enough to withstand a decent amount of bending pressure without breaking, but flexible enough to be carved. Lay your bones out for the sun treatment. This will take the majority of the time in making the helmet. While you are waiting, however, you can shape the leather. Lay the leather out flat. Take your paw-knife. Cut each small leather into tall rectangles. Once the bones are finished drying, you can now process them. Take a bone between your paws. Using the side of your jaw, focusing on the sharpest teeth in your cheek, carve two "V" shaped notches in both ends of the bone. These will hold the strip, attaching the bone securely to the leather. Repeat this with the rest of the bones. An optional step, at this point in the crafting of the helmet, is to bone-carve the ribs. This is done by using one's canine teeth to carve delicate designs into the bone. Bone-carving requires a massive amount of skill, and is extremely time-consuming. A well-carved set of bones, however, can make a piece of bone armor. If you decide to bone-carve, it can take you anywhere from 12 hours to three days to fully carve all of the bones used for the helmet. It is important to note that the bone can only be carved while it is still separate from the helmet--it must be rolled in a multitude of positions while being carved. While you could absolutely remove the bone from the leather, carve it, then re-attach it, you would be destroying a fur or leather strip in the process, and there is no guarantee that you can re-attach the bone in the same spot. The holes already in the leather may be too weak to use twice. Now you can begin attaching the bones to the leather. Load your needle. Take a rib. Wrap your strip three times around the notches you previously carved, knot it once. Poke your needle through the leather, then bring it back out. Take another bone and wrap the strip around it, connecting it to the first bone. Poke your needle through the leather, then bring it back out. Take a third bone and connect it as well. Poke your needle through the leather once more and knot it tight to secure that side of the bones to the leather. Repeat this on the other side of the bones, securing the bones together, and to the leather. Reload your needle and add two straps, at the top and bottom of the leather. You will repeat this process three more times for the remaining three leg-guards. If you are creating neck and tail guards, then repeat it twice more. Now try on the armor and adjust the fit. BODY ARMOR.
iTEMS NEEDED. one large leather - flexible. six rib bones of a large-sized animal (example sizes: elk to bison). four rib bones of a medium-sized animal (example sizes: pit bull to white-tailed deer). eight rib bones of a small-sized animal (example sizes: boston terrier to raccoon). CRAFTiNG. It takes both time and skill to create any type of bone armor. One must be adept with their paws, and tools, in order to do it. It would take one five days to create body armor. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Once you have gathered your materials, you must now make sure of their quality. The bones should be sun-dried for a minimum of 24 hours, two 12-hour sessions of sunlight. Once they are dried, they must be sturdy enough to withstand a decent amount of bending pressure without breaking, but flexible enough to be carved. Lay your bones out for the sun treatment. This will take the majority of the time in making the helmet. While you are waiting, however, you can shape the leather. Lay the leather out flat. Take your paw-knife. Cut the leather to the contours of your body. This is most easily done by putting the leather on, taking it off, cutting a little bit, putting it back on, and repeating the process until you have the perfect shape. Once the bones are finished drying, you can now process them. Take a bone between your paws. Using the side of your jaw, focusing on the sharpest teeth in your cheek, carve two "V" shaped notches in both ends of the bone. These will hold the strip, attaching the bone securely to the leather. Repeat this with the rest of the bones. An optional step, at this point in the crafting of the helmet, is to bone-carve the ribs. This is done by using one's canine teeth to carve delicate designs into the bone. Bone-carving requires a massive amount of skill, and is extremely time-consuming. A well-carved set of bones, however, can make a piece of bone armor. If you decide to bone-carve, it can take you anywhere from 12 hours to three days to fully carve all of the bones used for the helmet. It is important to note that the bone can only be carved while it is still separate from the helmet--it must be rolled in a multitude of positions while being carved. While you could absolutely remove the bone from the leather, carve it, then re-attach it, you would be destroying a fur or leather strip in the process, and there is no guarantee that you can re-attach the bone in the same spot. The holes already in the leather may be too weak to use twice. Now you can begin attaching the bones to the leather. Load your needle. Take a large rib. Wrap your strip three times around the notches you previously carved, knot it once. Poke your needle through the leather, then bring it back out. Take a medium bone and wrap the strip around it, connecting it to the first bone. Poke your needle through the leather, then bring it back out. Take a second large bone and connect it as well. Take another medium bone and connect it. Take a third large bone and connect it. Poke your needle through the leather once more and knot it tight to secure that side of the bones to the leather. Repeat this on the other side of the bones, securing the bones together, and to the leather. Reload your needle and repeat this layering process on the other side of the leather. Each plating should cover one full side of the armor. Take two small ribs and connect them together. Attach them to the armor. Repeat this twice more, creating three small plates, down the area of the armor that would cover the spine when the armor is being worn. Reload your needle, and attach a girth and belly strap. Now try the armor on and adjust the fit as needed. Take a moment and stand back to admire how bad-ass your armor is. Congratulations. weapons There is only one weapon that is available at this point in time. Why? Because we couldn't think of anything else. If you have an idea, please let us know! DEW-CLAW WEAPON. a type of bracelet that covers one's dew-claw, or adds one, if they had theirs removed, on the front legs to provide better gripping and slicing power when in a fight. creates one pair of dew-claw weapons.
iTEMS NEEDED. four fur or leather strips. two bones, claws, or stones to act as the weapon's 'blade.' CRAFTiNG. Once you have the materials gathered, it doesn't take long to lash everything together. It takes one only two hours to create a pair of dew-claw weapons. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items. Shape your chosen blade material into the shape of a claw. Carve notches into the thickest end of it, opposite of each other. Wrap a strip tightly around the notches, knot it once. Take a second strip and thread it through the one you have tied to the blade. Thread it through a couple times to make sure it is snug, and knot it. Take the rest of the strip and create a loop, tying it back to the blade. This loop will go around your leg, and the blade will rest on your dew-claw, or where your dew-claw would be. Repeat this process to create a second dew-claw weapon. Make sure you try them on and adjust the fit as necessary. medicinal tools Whether you are crafting potions or poisons, you need tools. This lists what you'll need, and how to make them. CONTAiNER. a water-proof container fit for anything from herbs to potions. makes four bamboo containers. |
iTEMS NEEDED. one bamboo stalk. optional of one small leather - flexible and two fur or leather strips.
CRAFTiNG. Processing bamboo is relatively simple and quick. It would take one only two hours to create four bamboo containers from a single stalk of bamboo. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items.
Bamboo only grows in the swamp, so one would have to take a trip there to gather it. However, it grows in great groves and one only needs a single stalk to craft multiple containers. Once you have your stalk, you can begin crafting your containers.
First, lay out the stalk. Use your paw-knife to cut it into sections, just beneath the lines in the stalk. The inside of bamboo is hollow, and each chamber has a bottom, which creates a ready-made container with an open top once it's cut. Be aware, the containers have no lids, and so if there is a liquid within it could spill out if knocked over.
To remedy this, you can create a simple lid with a piece of leather and a fur or leather strip. Take your paw-knife. Cut the leather into a circle that is about an inch larger than the opening of the container. Now simply take a strip and tie the lid onto the container.
If you would like a handle, with which to carry the container, then you need to use your canine tooth to drill two holes at the top of the container--opposite of each other. Load your needle. Poke it through one hole, knot the strip. Thread the strip through the other hole and knot it, creating a handle. [/ul]
MORTAR AND PESTLE. the most important tool in the healer's arsenal. used to grind and mix ingredients. makes one mortar and pestle.
iTEMS NEEDED. one wooden log or one large rock. one branch, one slightly rounded smaller rock, or one large femur bone.
CRAFTiNG. Crafting a mortar and pestle is not a simple task. It requires time and patience. It takes one three days to craft a mortar and pestle. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items.
First, one must decide what material they want the mortar to be made of. There are two different options, both with their own advantages and disadvantages.
Using stone to create your mortar is a very viable option. It may take quite some time to wear down a hole for your mortar, but the stone does not allow liquid to seep into it, not to mention that stone is easy to find anywhere on the reserve. It can be quite light, depending on the stone you choose, and can easily be ported to another location or carried in a satchel. A good stone for a mortar is already slightly concave, and can be any size you see fit to have, though a bigger stone is less-likely to crack when you shape it. Stone will never decay, and though the bowl of it will wear with each use, the entirety of the mortar will remain intact for centuries.
Using a wooden log to create your mortar can be time-consuming and, if one wants the mortar to hold liquid without it seeping into the wood, requires the use of fire. Wooden mortars can also be very heavy, and cannot be easily moved from place to place. However, using wood for your mortar means that it the bowl of it last longer than stone--as it doesn't wear away each time it is used--and some even say that because you are using what was once a living plant, herbs may come out better if ground in it. Wood is susceptible to decay and rot, especially if left in damp conditions. Though the bowl of it may last quite some time, the entirety of the log will eventually rot away.
Once you've chosen your mortar material, it's time to shape it.
For shaping a stone mortar, one must use a round stone, and sand as an abrasive. Place the sand on the surface of the stone you wish to shape, then take the round stone and begin rubbing in a circular motion. Be sure to apply lots of pressure, as your goal is to literally wear the mortar stone down into a bowl shape. This will take at least 3 days, and you may go through two or more rubbing stones before you have finished. Once you have a bowl that is deep enough to suit your needs, simply wipe away the sand and your mortar is complete.
For shaping a wooden mortar, one must have a sharp stone with one blunt end, and a rounder stone for rubbing. Sand is also used as an abrasive. Take your sharp stone and draw a circle in the broadside of the log where your bowl will be. Next, position your paw on the blunt end, and press the sharp end into the wood, starting at the edge of the circle and pushing in toward the center. Repeat this action until you have a bowl that is deep enough to suit your needs. This will take at least 2 days. Once you are satisfied with the depth of your mortar, set aside your sharp stone. Place your sand in the bowl, and take your round stone in paw. Use plenty of pressure to rub the sand and stone around the inside of your bowl until it is smooth. This will take an entire day. Remove the sand from the bowl and you have a wooden mortar.
If you would like to strengthen and waterproof your wooden mortar, then you will need fire. Take a stick and set it ablaze, then use that fire to ignite the bowl of your wooden mortar. Let it burn for a few minutes, watching carefully that the entire log doesn't go up in smoke. Next, simply put out the fire however you wish, and return once more to your sand and round stone. Use them as you did before, only this time it is just to remove the ash from the very top layer of the bowl. Remove the sand, ash, and stone, and you have a wooden mortar that will not absorb moisture, and will be quite a bit stronger than before.
When it comes to crafting a pestle, it can be as simple as finding a stone that fits your paw, or as complex as carving a bone. There are three different options for a pestle, each with their own advantages and disadvantages.
Finding and using a stone as a pestle is quickest and easiest option. You may use the round stone you used to shape your mortar, or find another one that better suits your paw. A good pestle stone is flat on one side and round on the other, and is the right size for the entirety of one paw. Stone is abundant across the reserve, so it is easy to locate one that will work for you. The disadvantage to using stone is that it will wear each time you use it, and you may get minerals from the stone in your herbs, offsetting the balance.
The second easiest option is to find a branch, carve it, and harden it. Any branch will do, so long as the width of it is equal to that of your paw. Cut the branch so that its length is equal to your paw, then cut that section in half so that it has one round side and one flat side. Next, simply light it on fire and let it burn for a few minutes, making sure it isn't going to go up completely in smoke. Put it out, rub off the ash, and you have a fire-hardened pestle. This process only takes about half an hour. The disadvantage to using wood is that it is still somewhat susceptible to rot and decay. Being that it was once living matter, time will take its toll and the wood will eventually rot away.
The hardest, but longest-lasting, option is to use the femur bone from a large prey animal. First, you will need to fell a large prey animal, such as an elk or bison. This is really only accomplished in a pack hunt, as one dog or wolf alone could never hope to fell an adult deer or bison--and the bones of young prey aren't as strong. Once you have the bone, however, you must now cut it. There really isn't an easy way to cut it. You can either take a sharp stone to it and carve at it until it finally cracks, probably going through a few stones in the process, or you can use your teeth to wear at it until it breaks. However you do it, the bone must be cut to fit the width and length of your paw, with one flat side, and one round side. Once you've cut it, you have your pestle. Bone is hard and made to last. If given the time, it would even outlast stone as a pestle. Not to mention that, as it wears, it leaves only positive minerals in your herbs. [/ul]
BOOK. a book that can be used as anything from a journal to a recipe book. creates one book.
iTEMS NEEDED. one small dried hide - stiff, or one small leather - stiff. leather - stiff, leaves or thin strips of bark, however many you wish for however many pages you want to have. three fur or leather strips.
CRAFTiNG. Once you have the materials gathered and processed, it is actually quite simple to create a book. It will take one only two hours to create a book. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items.
First you will need to choose the material for your pages. There are three types of pages one can use: leather, leaves, or bark. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Leather is by far the most efficient, as it will last for quite some time, if properly tanned. To use leather pages, one must collect animal-hides (rabbit is usually best because it is small and thin, though it can be tough to work with for the same reasons) and tan them, being sure to remove the fur. When tanning the hides that will be your pages, it is typically best that the leather is not pliable, but rather rigid. Rigid pages in the book will last longer, and won't bend and rub as the book is jostled.
Bark is a very good alternative to leather, if hunting isn't your proficiency. There aren't many types of trees that can supply the correct bark for your pages, but the types that can are very abundant on the reserve. On the drier parts of the swamp, and around Silver Falls, exist Paper Birch Trees. These trees have distinctive white bark that peels to create the perfect ready-made paper. Simply pluck some from the tree, flatten it between two rocks, and allow it to dry for a few hours. Then, voila, you have paper for your book! Bark, however, once dry, can become brittle with age, and may crack and fall away as the book is jostled.
Leaves are the easiest 'paper' to find and obtain, being that they grow on all plants, and there is no specific type of leaf one must use. Even the leaves of weeds can be placed together to create a page. The more broad the leaves, the better they are for pages. Leaves require no special treatment to become paper for your book, you can simply gather however many you feel you'll need and place them into your book. As time wears on, however, leaves will become dry and brittle. They won't last long against the wear and rub as the book is jostled.
Once you have your pages, line them up and cut them to a similar size. Lay your leather flat and cut it to the correct size, remembering that it needs to be twice the length of the pages so it can wrap around to create a front and rear cover.
Load your needle. Using your canine teeth, poke three holes in the spine of the book. Thread your needle through one of the holes and knot the leather tight. Repeat this for the remaining two holes.
You now have a ready-to-use book.
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items
There are many items one can make, from jewelry to bags, that can both accentuate your image, or provide useful storage. If you can dream it, you can craft it. While this list includes some basics, it is by no means complete. If you can think of something else that should be here, let us know!
NECKLACE. worn as a symbol of status, or simple a fashion statement. creates one necklace.
SATCHEL. a handy bag with which to carry items. creates one satchel.
BANDAGES. creates five bandages.
[/td][/tr][/table][/center]NECKLACE. worn as a symbol of status, or simple a fashion statement. creates one necklace.
- TOOLS NEEDED. none. your teeth and claws will suffice.
iTEMS NEEDED. one fur or leather strip. one or more decorations of your choice (examples: a carved tooth, a unique rock).
CRAFTiNG. To create a necklace is an extremely simple process. It will only take one a matter of ten minutes to create one. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items.
Take your decoration(s) and attach it to the middle of the strip. This can be done in many different ways, depending on what material the decoration is made of. If it is bone, or anything softer than bone, a hole can be drilled with a canine tooth, or a notch can be made using your teeth as well. The strip can then be threaded through the hole, or around the notches, to secure the decoration to the necklace.
Another way to attach a decoration to a necklace, if the material is too hard to be readily carved or drilled, or perhaps too fragile, is to wrap a separate strip around the decoration, and attach that strip to the necklace. This is most commonly seen with rock or gem decorations, so as to keep the decoration in prime condition.
Once you have your decoration(s) attached, simply knot the ends of the necklace strip together, and put it on.
SATCHEL. a handy bag with which to carry items. creates one satchel.
- TOOLS NEEDED. paw-knife. needle.
iTEMS NEEDED. one medium leather - flexible, or one dried hide - flexible. two small leather - flexible, or two small dried hides - flexible. three fur or leather strips.
CRAFTiNG. Once the hide or leather has been processed, combining them together is relatively simple. It would take one only two hours to create a satchel. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items.
Lay out your medium hide or leather. Take your paw-knife. Cut the hide or leather into a tall rectangle. Lay out and cut your small hides or leathers into rectangles. Fold your medium hide or leather over, creating the front, bottom, rear, and flap of the satchel. Line your small hides or leathers up on either side of the medium hide or leather, creating sides to the satchel.
Load your needle. Thread the strip through both the medium and small hides or leathers, connecting the sides to create a satchel. Be sure to leave enough of the top of the medium hide or leather to have a flap that will hang over and cover the opening of the satchel.
Reload your needle. Poke it through the top middle of one of the small hides or leathers, and connect it to the same spot on the other side. Leave a great amount of slack in the strip when you connect it--this will become the strap to allow you to wear the satchel.
Try the satchel on and adjust the fit.
BANDAGES. creates five bandages.
- TOOLS NEEDED. Paw-Knife.
iTEMS NEEDED. one small leather - flexible.
CRAFTiNG. Creating bandages is simple and quick, which is endlessly useful for the injured. It takes one about ten minutes to create five bandages. This doesn't include the gathering/crafting of required items.
Lay out your small leather on a flat surface. Use your paw-knife to cut the hide into five long, thick strips. Each strip works as a single bandage.
